Tag Archives: travel

Dinar

14 Apr

I might not feel at home where I was born, but here on the outskirts of the continent I appreciate a waitress that does not take away my plate when I am still eating. It is my birthday – the 5th of April.

Can you imagine a bigger pleasure than being treated as you would like to be treated while your turning 53?

I am always looking for something, but very often I find something else. How can I expect to find the same restaurant after 27 years? I am like an aboriginal. My past and my heritage has been disrupted, distroyed and mutulated. I cannot sing the same song and find my way around. I thought I could cross the railway tracks, but they build a new railway station.

This time I found a small restaurant called Dinar in Konstantinoupoleos number 178A run by Nadia, where I got a nice bottle of rosé and freshly fried sardines.

 

 

In the air

14 Apr

Jeg havde næsten aflyst rejsen på grund af sygdom og ubehag. Det er blevet en besættelse for mig med lige dele godt og ondt at rejse. Det fylder mig med ubehag og væmmelse. Jeg ved at intet godt vil tilflyde mig, men så snart jeg bevæger mig, er jeg glad. Det er som at købe vin. Jeg fortryder det altid, men glæder mig til hvert et glas.

Det er vel bare mit misbrug.

 

 

A place called Mexico

23 Jan

Every year in December I run an online Christmas calendar. This past December it was dedicated to my Mexican friends, where they are. It was also a tribute to a country I learned to love as a young boy, when I visited Mexico for the first time by the age of 22 years. Finally it was my humble attempt of bringing some hope and my expresssion of compassion in a time of fear and anger because of the disappearance of the 43 students in Ayotzinapa.

1.december – Mexico

To år med Enrique Peña Nieto. Det er intet at fejre. Julen nærmer sig. Lad os bruge de næste 24 dage til at overveje om der overhovedet er noget at fejre…

2.december – Roberto Barrios

Her sad jeg engang i ugevis og kiggede ud i luften. Min tilstedeværelse holdt volden og undertrykkelse i skak for en tid. Om formiddagen kom de små piger og solgte mig småkager. Senere på eftermiddag vandt unge drenge over mig i skak. Om aftenen diskuterede jeg politik og meget andet med byens unge kvinder og mænd. Nat efter nat hørtes skud i nærheden.

Årets kalenderlåger er dedikeret til mine mexicanske venner her og der.

If you like I will tag you!

3.december

Dette års julekalenderen på U-landsnyt handler om 24 forskellige lande. Mit bidrag fra i dag handler om Mexico. Parallelt har jeg vanen tro min egen julekalender via min personlige FB-profil. Den handler i år om steder i Mexico. Digteren Morten Ranum og journalisten af samme navn bør selvfølgelig ikke forveksles…

Julekalenderen på U-landsnyt: 3.december 2014: Mexico

Hvad gemmer sig bag dagens kalenderlåge?
Hvad gemmer sig i det nye år?
24 låger – 24 lande – 24 aktuelle udviklinger.

4.december – Colima

Jeg kom ad kysten på stop med en mand der kørte 200 km/t i sin sportsvogn. Varmen udenfor var stegende. I byen mødte jeg Alfredo på gaden. Han inviterede mig med hjem og spise frokost. Her mødte jeg hans kæreste Lisa. Hun var meget politisk. Da hun fik at vide, at jeg havde planer om at tage til San Cristobal de las Cases i ‪‎Chiapas, gav hun mig straks adressen på en politisk gruppe eller kollektiv udenfor San Cristobal og opfordrede mig kraftigt til at opsøge dem. Et par måneder senere fik jeg på vej ned i metroen i Mexico City stjålet min pung med alle mine adresser og visitkort. Gad vi om det sted i Chiapas, som Lisa havde fortalt mig om, var det samme sted som vi nogle år senere skulle lære at kende som Oventik?

I came along the coast hitch hiking with a man driving 200 km/h in his sports car. The heat outside was boiling hot. In the town I met Alfredo on the street. He invited me home for lunch. In the house I met his girlfriend Lisa. She was very political and a declared feminist. When she learnt about my plans to go to Chiapas, she gave an address of a political group outside of ‪‎San Cristobal de las Casas. And she encouraged me to find them. A couple of month later in lost all my contacts in the metro in Mexico City. I always wondered if the place Lisa had told me about, was the same place that we years later got to know as Oventik?

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Kalenderlågene er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

5.december – Ciudad Juarez

Jeg kørte igennem på vej til ‪‎El Paso, men stoppede af mange årsager ikke. Senere har jeg hørt, at det ikke er noget rart sted at opholde sig. Midt i et prærieland, hvor ingen love gælder. Skulle jeg have vendt tilbage? Her findes mange af de forsvundne kvinder. Vi har måske egentlig altid godt vidst, at såvel stat som magtfulde mænd og kvinder har været smeltet sammen med ‪mord, vold og korruption. Utallige myrdede og ‪forsvundne kvinder i en grænseby kan umuligt være omgæret med mystik i årevis uden at det er del af en større sammensværgelse.

I drove through on my way to El Paso, but I did not stop for various reasons. Later I heard that it is not a very nice place to be. In the midst of Prairie Country where no laws are obeyed. Should I have gone back? Here are very many disappeared women. Sincerely we have always known that as well government as ‪powerful men and women have been tied together and attached to ‪murder, ‪violence and ‪‎corruption. Indefinite numbers of murdered and ‪disappeared women in a border town cannot possibly be surrounded by ‪mystery, if it is not part of larger ‪conspiracy.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. ‪‎Kalenderlågene er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of ‪‎December I write about places in ‪Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

6.december – Mexico DF

Mexico is not a city. DF is a city and a very large one. Mexico is not even one country. It is a union of states. ‪Estados Unidos Mexicanos. How arrogant of North America to refer to themselves as The United States. I came from the north the first time I arrived. It was huge. The view over the city was foggy and ‪yellowbrown. After a couple of hours I was beginning to get close to the city. I had two adresses so I had somewhere to go. One of them was literary under a metro station in the northern part of the city. The other was in ‪Colonia Federal close to the airport, where Leopoldo lived with his parents and his sister Rosa. I stayed with them for three weeks. Half a year later I came back.

Mexico er ikke en by. DF er en by eller en del af en meget stor by. Mexico er ikke engang kun et land. Det er en sammenslutning af stater. Estados Unidos Mexicanos. Hvor arragant er det ikke af Nordamerika at kalde sig blot De forenede Stater. Jeg kom fra nord den første gang. Den var enorm. Udsigten var tåget og gulbrun. Efter et par timer begyndte jeg at nærme mig. Jeg havde to adresser, så jeg vidste, hvor jeg skulle tage hen. Det ene sted var bogstavelig talt under en metro station i den nordlige del af byen. Det andet lå i Colonia Federal i nærheden af lufthavnen, hvor Leopoldo boede med sine forældre og sin søster Rosa. Jeg boede hos dem i tre uger. Et halvt år senere vendte jeg tilbage.

Hvor er alle disse steder i Mexico? Jeg skriver om dem her i december som en hilsen til mine mexicanske venner hvor end I måtte være.

Where are all these places in Mexico? I write about them in this month of December as a gestur to my mexican friends where ever you are.

7.december – Ocosingo

Der var ‪frygt. Også jeg var bange. Jeg skulle mødes med nogle politiske aktivister men turde ikke spørge om vej. Det vrimlede med militær overalt. Tanks fyldte gaderne. Har denne frygt nu spredt sig til mange andre byer i Mexico? … men det er måske ikke kun frygten der har bredt sig. I ‪San Cristobal de las Casas plejede de at se sige, at på markedet er alt til salg undtagen indiansk ‪værdighed. Er det den værdighed vi ser på gaderne i ‪‎Colima, ‪Veracruz, ‪Monterrey, ‪Ciudad de Mexico og mange andre steder? Er ikke #‎Yamecanse2 2014-udgave af ‪#‎YaBasta?

There was ‪‎fear. Also I was afraid. I was going to meet with political activists but did not dare to ask for directions. There was military everywhere. Tank filled the streets. Have this fear now spread to many different cities throughout Mexico? … but maybe it is not only fear who has spread around the country. In San Cristobal de las Casas they have a saying that in the market everything is for sale except indignous dignity. Is it this dignity we see in the streets of Colima, Veracruz, Monterry, Ciudad de Mexico and many other places? Isn’t #Yamecanse2 the 2014 edition of #YaBasta?

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Kalenderlågene er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of ‪December I write about places in ‪Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my Mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

8.december – Gomati

Dagens låge adskiller sig. Det er i dag 10 år side min ven Richard Aliah i Uganda døde. Ære være hans minde.

Today’s entry is different. It is 10 years ago my friend Richard Aliah in Uganda died. May his soul rest in peace.

Julekalenderen på U-landsnyt: 3.december 2014: Kenya (og Uganda)

Hvad gemmer sig bag dagens kalenderlåge?
Hvad gemmer sig i det nye år?
24 låger – 24 lande – 24 aktuelle udviklinger.

9.december – ‪‎Mexicali

This place was the first town I came to, when I entered ‪Mexico for the first time many years ago. I was still young and naiv! It is one of the two border towns in Baja California. In a bank where I was trying to withdraw money from my credit card. Times before ‪‎ATM machines. The man at the counter invited my home for lunch. This was my first encounter with Mexican hospitality. In his home we had ‪‎Mole Poblano. Chicken in a very spicy black sauce. After lunch we relaxed in the next room and talked about what I was to learn is the absolute top topic for Mexican men: women. He went back to work and I settled in a hotel room. I never saw him again but he gave me Mole. A dish I have tasted with pleasure many times since in multiple variations.

Det var den første by jeg kom til, da jeg kom til Mexico for første gang for mange år siden. Den ene af de to grænsebyer i Baja California. I en bank hvor jeg ville hæve penge på mit kreditkort. Der var ingen hæveautomater. Manden bag skranken inviterede hjem til frokost. Det var mit første møde med mexicansk gæstfrihed. I hans hus spiste vil Mole Poblano. Kylling i en meget stærk sort sovs. Efter maden blev jeg tilbudt at slappe af i et tilstødende rum. Her talte vi om et emne som skulle vise sig at være mexicanske mænds foretrukne samtaleemne og interesse: kvinder. Han tog tilbage til banken og jeg indlogerede mig på et hotel. Jeg så ham aldrig igen, men han gav mig Mole. En ret jeg har spist med glæde mange gange siden i utallige udgaver.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Kalenderlågerne er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of ‪December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my Mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

10.december – Roberto Barrios, part 2

One day in the late afternoon Maria passed by our house. She came together with two small girls. Maria sometimes played volley ball with the two American women in our house. I looked intensely at the two small girls and Maria and remembering the fear I feel at night listening to gun shots. From this moment I am begging in my dreams that she would protect the small girls and boys. If necessarry I asked her to take them their hands an flee into the jungle. It has maybe now and today become the time when we have take every child by the hand and hide them in the jungle but I am afraid that there will not be room for all of them.

En dag sidst på eftermiddagen kom Maria forbi vores hus. Hun kom sammen med to små piger. Maria spillede nogle gange volley ball med de to amerikanske kvinder i huset. Jeg kiggede intenst på pigerne og Maria og husker den frygt jeg føler om natten ved lyden af geværskud. Fra det øjeblik begyndte jeg at bede hende i mine drømme om at beskytte de små piger og drenge. Om nødvendigt bad jeg hende om at tage dem i hænderne og flygte ind i junglen. Nu i dag er tiden måske kommet, hvor vil bør tage alle børnene i hænderne og gemme dem i junglen. Men jeg er bange for, at der ikke vil være plads til dem alle.

I write about places in Mexico in this month of december as a token of love to a country I once visited and to my Mexican friends.

Jeg skriver om steder i Mexico i denne december måned som et udtryk for min kærlighed til et land jeg engang besøgte og til mine mexicanske venner.

#‎todosmososayotzinapa
#‎yamecanse2

11.december – ‪Tijuana

The other border town in Baja California. It is a huge noisy dirty dangerous city. Manu Chao wrote a song about this place. We have heard very bad and complicated stories about life in the city. But then the murders of women in ‪Ciudad Juarez began and we forgot all about Tijuana.

Den anden grænseby i Baja California. Det er en stor larmende beskidt farlig by ved ‪Stillehavet. Manu Chao har lavet en sang om dette sted. Vi har hørt dårlige og komplicerede historier om livet i byen. Men så begyndte ‪‎kvindemordene i Ciudad Juarez og så glemte vi alt om Tijuana.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. ‪‎Kalenderlågerne er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my Mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

12.december – Rosarito

A small beach town south of Tijuana. In Rosarito I stayed in my tent on the beach. It was the first time I saw the sun set over den Pacific Ocean. There was a small restaurant where I came in the morning to have Mexican breakfast and drink bloody mary. One day I met an older women on the beach. We became friends. Many years later I have realised that she probably had other intentions. She drove me around in her car where I wanted to go. Sometimes she would take me to fancy restaurants in San Diego. The big city on the other side of the border from ‪‎Tijuana. One day it was a Scandinavian restaurant where all the waitresses look like a stereotype of a nordic blonde. She paid for everything, but I didn’t gave it any thoughts. After a while she began to complain that I didn’t gave her enough attention, and one day she had disappeared.

En lille strandby syd for Tijuana. I Rosarito boede jeg i mit telt på stranden. Det var første gang jeg så solopgang over Stillehavet. Der var en lille restaurant hvor jeg kom om morgenen for at spise mexicansk morgenmad og drikke bloody mary. En dag mødte jeg en noget ældre dame på stranden. Vi blev venner. Mange år senere har jeg indset at hun nok havde andre ønsker. Hun kørte mig rundt i sin bil hvor end jeg havde lyst til at tage hen. Nogle gange tog hun mig til dyre restauranter i San Diego. Den store by på den anden side af grænsen fra Tijuana. En dag var det en skandinavisk restaurant hvor alle servitricerne lignede en stereotyp udgave af en nordisk blondine. Hun betalte for alting, men jeg tænkte ikke videre over det. Efter et stykke tid begyndte hun er brokke sig over at jeg ikke gav hende nok opmærksomhed, og en dag var hun sporløst forsvundet.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Kalenderlågerne er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of ‪‎December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my Mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

13.december – ‪Acapulco

Tonight is a party. We have gone to Acapulco. Here the plastic world has no limits. Not far from here is Iguala! From the balcony I am overlooking the Bay of Acapluco with the ‪Pacific Ocean in the horizon.. In the evening we go all inclusive. Tequila ad libitum. Later in the night we are cruising from one ‪‎beach bar to the next. In one of them a man is standing on top of the bar and spraying tequila in the throat of however is close to him. For a moment I cannot tell if the sprinkle in all the open mouth is sperm or tequila. Here the decadence will take no end. In big contrast to life few kilometers away.

I aften er der fest. Vi er taget til Acapulco. Her har plastik-kulisserne ingen ende. Ikke langt herfra ligger Iguala. Fra balkonen ser jeg ud over vandet i Acapulco-bugten. Om aftenen går vi all inclusive. ‪‎Tequila ad libitum. Senere på natten cruiser vi fra den ene strandbar til den næste. Et sted står en mand på bardisken og sprøjter tequila på den først og den bedste. Et øjeblik kan jeg ikke skelne om strålen ned i de mange åbne munde er sperm eller tequila. Dekadencen vil ingen ende tage. I stor kontrast til livet få kilometer herfra.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Kalenderlågerne er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my Mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

14.december – Masunte

A small village along the coast somewhat further south than Acapulco. Masunte is a place you would like to go for a romantic weekend. Think about who you invite along. Well. a group of good friend would also be real nice. During the day you can join the local boys and their dangerous game in the huge waves, but remember they grew up doing it every day, you did not. Up from the beach there is a small restaurant and if you would like the chili pumping in your body for the rest of the day then ask for Pescado al diablo.

En landsby langs kysten noget længere mod syd end Acapulco. Masunte er stedet at tage til for en romantisk weekend. Tænk over hvem du inviterer. Men, ok, en gruppe af nære venner ville også være rart. I løbet af dagen kan du gøre de lokale drenge selskab i deres farlige lege med det enorme bølger, men husk at de er vokset op med at gøre det hver eneste dag, det er du ikke. I den ene ende af bugten med en fin udsigt ligger der en lille restaurant. Hvis du ønske chilien skal ryste din krop resten af dagen så bestil Pescado al diablo.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. ‪‎Kalenderlågerne er tilegnet mine mexicanske venner her og der. Hvis du like’r en eller flere af lågerne vil jeg tag’e dig i resten af måneden indtil den 24.

In this month of ‪‎December I write about places in Mexico. The posts are dedicated to my mexican friends here and there. If you press like to one og more of these posts then I will tag you for the rest of the month until the 24th.

15.december – Oaxaca

Let us not forget Oaxaca.
Let us not forget the teachers.
Let us not forget the children in the streets of Oaxaca.
Let us not forget the small boys and girls.
Let us not forget.
Let us not forget Oaxaca.

Lad os ikke glemme Oaxaca.
Lad os ikke glemme lærere.
Lad os os ikke glemme børnene i Oaxacas gader.
Lad os ikke glemme de små drenge og piger.
Lad os ikke glemme.
Lad os ikke glemme Oaxaca.

In this month of December I write about places in ‪Mexico as an expression of hope and compassion to my mexicsn friends whereever you are. If you like one of these posts them I will tag you until the 24th

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico i solidaritet pg medfølelse med mine mexicanske venner hvor end I befinder jer. Hvis du liker en af disse kalenderlåger så vil tag’e dig resten af måneden.

16.december – ‪Veracruz

I have never been there but I always liked the name, v-e-r-a-CRUZ. I once knew a woman in Mexico who came from Veracruz. She was called Maru. The friend of Rosa, Leopoldos sister. I probably should have married Maru. But as many other times I was too carefull, cautious and reserved; as another woman called me after offering me several very obvious invititations to seduce her.

Jeg har aldrig været der men jeg har altid godt kunnet lide navnet, v-e-r-a-CRUZ. Engang kendte jeg en kvinde i Mexico som kom fra Veracruz. Hun hed Maru. Veninde med Rosa, Leopoldos søster. Jeg burde nok have giftet mig med Maru. Men som mange andre gange var jeg meget forsigtig; som en anden kvinde bemærkede efter at givet mig flere meget åbenlyse muligheder for at forføre hende

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico as a tribute to my Mexican friends here and there. If you like one of these posts then I will tag you in coming days.

I denne december måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico for at lindre den smerte mine mexicanske venner føler. Hvis du liker en af kalenderlågerne vil jeg tag’e dig indtil den 24.

17.december – Mamas Birthday

Today is mamas birthday. My mothers birthday. I grew up not calling her that, it was in the wild 60es when naming someone after family relationship was considered bourgeois. It was not until I travelled outside Europe that I learnt that everybody else called their mother what she is, mama. Maybe that was my own mothers idea, that every time someone called her, she wanted to feel that she was herself, that beside being a mother she was something else, somebody else. But all this was real hard explaining when I travelled from town to town in Mexico. When mothers saw me they insisted inviting me home for lunch or dinner because they could not imagine a young man on his own would be able to get anything to eat.

Happy birthday Elin, mother, mom, mama, wife, sister, retired teacher, SOS activist, daughter, grandmother, former editor … and a lot more off course.

I dag er den mors fødselsdag. Min mors fødselsdag. Jeg voksede op uden at kalde hende det, det var i de vilde 60ere hvor dette at kalde nogen efter deres familie relation blev betragtet som borgerligt. Det var ikke før jeg rejste udenfor Europa at jeg lærte at alle andre kaldte deres mor det hun er, mor. Måske var dette præcis min egen mors begrundelse, at hver gang nogen kaldte hende, ville hun føle at hun var sig selv, at udover at være mor, ville hun også være noget andet, en anden. Men alt dette var det virkelig svært at forklare da jeg rejste fra by til by i Mexico. Når mødre så mig insisterede de på at jeg skulle komme til middag fordi de ikke kunne forestille sig at en ung mand der var alene ville være i stand til at få noget at spise.

Tillykke med fødselsdagen Elin, moder, mor, kone, søster, pensioneret folkeskolelærer, SOS aktivist, datter, farmor, tidligere redaktør …. og selvfølgelig meget mere.

In this month of ‪‎December I write about places in Mexico as a tribute to my mexican friends here and there. If you like one of these posts then I will tag you in coming days until christmas day.

I denne december måned skriver jeg om steder i ‎Mexico for at lindre den smerte mine mexicanske venner føler. Hvis du liker en af ‪kalenderlågerne vil jeg tag’e dig indtil den 24.

18.december – ‪Morelia

I put my tent up on a campsite outside town. Next to me there were two Mexicans on Easter holiday. It turned out that they were siblings. Very quickly they eagerly encouraged me to come and stay in their house when I arrived in Mexico City. Mi Casa es tu Casa. After being a couple of month in Mexico I have alteady heard that many times. But I also new that it is not only a phrase. Therefor I departed from Poldo and Rosa with an strong notion of los vemos. I knew I would meet them again. His real name was Leopoldo but Mexicans love to shorten words or add -ita or -ito to names as as a gesture of kindness. Rosa becomes Rosita. Tomas will be called Tomatito. Recently I learnt that Gaby will be Gabicita, though I thought it would be Gabita. Maybe I have been away from Mexico for too long?

Jeg havde slået mit telt på en campingplads i udkanten af byen. Ved siden af mig lå et par mexicanere. De viste sig at være søskende. Meget hurtigt udbrød de at når jeg kom til Mexico City så skulle jeg komme og bo hos dem, mi Casa es tu Casa. Efter et par måneder i Mexico havde jeg hørt det ofte. Det var allerede gået op for mig at det ikke kun er noget man siger. Det er alvorligt ment. Derfor tog jeg afsked med Poldo og Rosa i klar bevidsthed om at vi ville ses snart igen. Han hed egentlig Leopoldo men mexicanere elsker at forkorte ord eller tilføje -ita eller -ito til navne som en kærlig gestus. Rosa bliver til Rosita. Tomas bliver kaldet Tomatito. For nylig lærte jeg at Gaby er Gabicita, skønt jeg troede det ville være Gabita. Måske har jeg været væk fra Mexico i alt for lang tid.

In this month I write about places in Mexico. If you like my post I will tag you.

I denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico. Hvis du like’r vil jeg tag’e dig.

19.december – ‪‎Queretaro

Not so far from Mexico City. I was wandering around with my big muchila. Usually I was not in a hurry. I made sure that I arrived early in the day to the place I was going. Not that I planned very much ahead. I didn’t. My decisions about where to go was very accidental. I had no reason to go to Queretaro but I looked it up in my map. A guy from behind stopped and started talking to me. Alfredo wanted to know where I was going. He spoke very well English which I found unusual. But as always I insisted speaking my rather broken Spanish. He took me to an youth hostel in the oppesite part of town. There was some kind of monument there and he lived with his parents down the road. And also with his beautiful and very charming sister. He began inviting me for lunch at his house every day. Sometimes I was also there in the evening, and we would spent time in his room upstairs talking. We agreed to speak English every second day so that he could also practise his English. His sister would always come to greet me. She would ask how I was. And my reply was: soy bueno. She laughed. Until Alfredo corrected me. You are supposed to say: estoy bien; which means: I am fine. Soy bueno means: I am good looking.

Det er ikke så langt fra Mexico City. Jeg slendrede rundt med min store rygsæk. Sædvanligvis havde jeg ikke travlt. Jeg sørgede altid for at ankomme tidligt til det sted jeg ville til. Ikke at jeg planlagde særlig meget. Det gjorde jeg aldrig. Mine beslutninger var meget tilfældige. Jeg havde ingen grund til at tage til Queretaro. Men jeg havde kigget på mit kort. Der kom en fyr på cykel som stoppede op og spurgte hvor jeg skulle hen. Alfredo talte godt engelsk hvilket var usædvanligt. Men som altid fastholdt jeg at tale mit meget gebrokne spanske. Han tog mig til et vandrehjem i den modsatte ende af byen. Der var et eller andet slags monument der og han boede med sine forældre forenden af gaden. Og ikke at forglemme sammen med sin smukke og meget charmerende søster. Han begyndte at invitere mig til frokost i sit hus hver eneste dag. Nogle gange var jeg der også om aftenen. Vi tilbragte tiden på hans værelse og snakkede om det som drenge nu engang finder vigtigt. Han overtalte mig til at vil skulle tale engelsk. hver anden dag så han kunne øve sit engelsk. Hans søster kom altid og hilste på mig. Hun ville spørge hvordan jeg havde det. Og jeg svarede: soy bueno. Hun grinede. Indtil Alfredo rettede mig. Det er meningen at du skal sige: estoy bien; som betyder jeg har det godt. Soy bueno betyder: jeg ser godt ud.

In this month I write memories about places in Mexico. It is a tribute to Mexican friend where ever you are.

In denne måned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico som jeg husker dem. Det er en hyldest til mine mexicanske venner, hvor end I befinder jer.

20.december – Ciudad Constitucion

In Baja California just between the northern and southern part of the peninsula. The whole peninsula was quite deserted, but there was a road so you could drive from north to south, though not many did. In the main square of Ciudad Constitution I found a bus. It was a group of people selling something that I no longer recall. They drove from town to town. I would often just sit in the main square looking, and I guess a gringo in a small town where not many foreigners come catch attention. One of the guys introduced himself and we talked. He came from Mexico City but he had been traveling around in the bus for half a year. I stayed in a hotel own by a middle age couple. Here I learned to eat meat for breakfast. In the beginning I found it real odd and insisted on only ordering eggs, but the woman always tried to sneak a small piece of meat on my plate. She probably thought that this skinny boy ought to eat something more solid.

I Baja California lige mellem den sydlige og nordlige del af halvøen. Hele halvøen var meget øde, men der var trods alt blevet bygget en vej så man kunne køre fra nord til syd, skønt det var der ikke mange der gjorde. På den centrale plads i Ciudad Constitucion fandt jeg en bus. Det var en gruppe af sælgere der solgte noget jeg ikke længere husker. De kørte fra by til by. Jeg ville ofte blot sidde og kigge ud i luften, og jeg gætter på at en gringo i en lille by hvor der ikke kommer mange udlændinge skaber opmærksomhed. En af fyrene fra bussen introducerede sig selv og vi snakkede sammen. Han kom fra Mexico City men havde rejst rundt med bussen i et halvt år. Jeg boede på et hotel ejet af et midaldrende ægtepar. Her lærte jeg at spise kød til morgenmad. I begyndelsen fandt jeg det meget mærkeligt og jeg fastholdt kun at bede om æg. Men damen på hotellet sneg sig til at lægge også et lille stykke køb på min tallerken. Hun tænkte sikkert at denne tynde dreng burde have noget mere solidt at starte dagen på.

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico as a tribute to my Mexican friends here and there. If you like one of these posts then I will tag you in coming days until Christmas Day.

I denne december måned skriver jeg om steder i ‪‎Mexico for at lindre den smerte mine mexicanske venner føler. Hvis du liker en af ‪kalenderlågerne vil jeg tag’e dig indtil den 24.

21.december – ‪Puerta Arista

I was traveling with a friend from Denmark. It was around the millennium. After being in Chiapas doing political interviews with organizations working with ‪Los Zapatistas we decided to go to the beach for a while before returning to our friends in Mexico City. I always will be grateful for your friendship Anabel, Adriana, Tom, Rosalia and Nelly – but where is Nelly? We read something in a guide book. It was out of season and Arista looks like a left place after a storm. The structure of the buildings were intact but here was no one. Nevertheless all the restaurants and bars opened every day as if they were expecting a crowd to arrive. In the daytime here was calm and peaceful. We had the beach for ourselves. But in the evenings it became rather spooky and scary. Like a ghost town. We stayed a couple of nights to see if we had just arrived on a slow day. But every day they performed the same ritual for no reason.

Jeg rejste med en veninde fra Danmark. Det var omkring årtusindeskiftet. Efter at have været i Chiapas hvor jeg havde lavet nogle politiske interviews med organisationer som arbejdede sammen med ‪‎Zapatisterne besluttede vi at tage til stranden inden vi skulle tilbage til vores venner i Mexico City. Jeg vil altid være taknemmeliig for vores venskab Adriana, Tom, Anabel, Rosalia og Nelly – men hver er egentlig Nelly blevet af? Vi læste noget i en guidebog. Det var uden for sæsonen og Arista lignede et sted som var blevet forladt efter en storm. Bygningerne var intakte men her var ingen mennesker. Alligevel åbnede alle restauranter og barer hver dag som om de forventede det store ryk-ind. Om dagen var her stille og fredeligt. Vi havde stranden for os selv. Men om aftenen og natten blev det meget uhyggeligt og forvandledes til en spøgelsesby. Vi blev nogle dage for at se om vi bare var ankommet på en uheldig dag. Men hver eneste dag opførtes det samme ritual uden grund.

In the month of ‪Christmas I write about places in Mexico in order to remember everything about this country and the people that invited me into their lives just because our path crossed.

I denne juleemåned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico for at huske alt om landet og de mennesker som gjorde mig til en del af deres liv blot fordi vore veje krydsedes.

22.december – Oventik

One of the 5 headquarters for The Zapatist Movement in Chiapas. I visited it in 2001 and here are my thoughts 13 years ago: “Also the not successful trip to Oventik was worth while. They were skeptical because I didn’t bring the right kind of papers. It is not because I was not welcome. The place is performed as a tourist attraction. I was permitted to take a look, take picture of murals and visit the shop. Here was everything. Fruits, vegetables. A man sawing clothes. Books about Chiapas and Los Zapatistas. Tapes with political speeches and revolutionary songs from around the world. Not only the political correct ones.The most awful ashtrays made of glass with pictures of Marcos. All an equally important part of the rebellion. The commercial souvenirs are not a problem. It does not discredit the movement.”

In the month of ‪Christmas i write about places in ‪‎Mexico in order to remember everything about this country and the people that invited me into their lives just because our path crossed.

I denne julemåned skriver jeg om steder i Mexico for at huske alt om landet og de mennesker som gjorde mig til en del af deres liv blot fordi vore veje krydsedes.

23.december – ‪San Cristobal de las Casas

A place that for a long time was a “must” for many travelers. My friend Søren Aarup Jegindø from Kampala would probably say it is a town filled with hippies. I guess it is part of the truth but it is also home of many Mexican human rigths organisations and other political activists. For the immedeate eye the atmosphere seem happy and gentle. Though if you stay for longer time then you will begin to see the fear in peoples eyes and eventually you also begin to observe the oppression. If you consistantly interact with local organisations or are a political activist yourselves then you will be target for suspicion from the officials. The first time I was here a Mexican guy gave me a lecture in world politics. It lasted a full hour without interuption. The second time I interviewed CIEPAC about ‪ The Zapatist Movement. The third time I was a peace guard in ‎Roberto Barrios. If I was to go back a fourth time maybe I ought to go ‪Ayotzinapa instead.

Et sted som i lang tid var et “must” for mange rejsende. Min ven Søren fra Kampala ville sikkert sige at det var en by fyldt med hippier. Men her er også mange mexicanske organisationer og politiske aktivister. Umiddelbart virker her venligt og roligt. Hvis du bliver her i længere tid vil du lægge mærke til frygten i folks øjne og endelig vil du også se undertrykkelsen. Hvis du vedvarende har kontakt med lokale organisationer og aktivister vil myndighederne blive mistænksomme. Den første gang jeg var her fik jeg en time langt foredrag uden pause af en mexicansk fyr om verdenssituationen. Den anden gang interview’ede jeg CIEPAC om ‪‎Zapatisterne. Den tredje gang var jeg fredsvagt i Roberto Barrios. Hvis jeg skulle tage tilbage en fjerde gang burde jeg nok tage til Ayotzinapa i stedet for.

In this month of December I write about places in Mexico in order to remember them.

I denne julemåned skriver jeg steder i Mexico for at kunne huske dem.

24.december – Feliz Navidad (english)

I have been writing about places in Mexico for the last 24 days. I did it to dedicate attention to a country that I love. To tell not only about the problematic, conplicated and terrible present the last couple of month with the 43 missing people from Ayotzinapa. I also wanted to express good and beautiful memories. Maybe as an expression of compassion in a situation and pain and anger.

In the last couple of years I have been writing more and more about that a new continent await my arrival. After going bach fourth to East Africa for the last 10 years I will also in the future go somewhere else. When writing about a new continent I thought it would be Asia, but after the last couple of months it is clear to me that Mexico once again takes more and more of my attention. Perhaps it can be seen as the pay back time for Las Americas because when I went to Uganda in 2003 I had for some time been wanting to go and stay in Latin America for a longer time. I have never been very good at predicting my own where-abouts.

24.december – ‪Feliz Navidad (dansk)

Jeg har skrevet om steder i Mexico i de sidste 24 dage. Det har jeg gjort for at henlede opmærksomhed på et land jeg elsker. For at fortælle ikke kun om den problematiske, komplicerede og forfærdelig aktuelle situation i de sidste par måneder med de 43 forsvundne fra Ayoutzinapa. Jeg har også ønsket at give udtryk for gode og smukke minder. Som et udtryk for medfølelse i en situation med smerte og frustration.

I de sidste par år har jeg flere gange skrevet om at et nyt kontinent venter på min ankomst. Efter de sidste 10 at have rejst frem og tilbage til Østafrika vil jeg i fremtiden også rejse andre steder hen. Når jeg har skrevet om dette nye eller andet kontinent har jeg forestillet mig at det ville være Asien. Men i løbet af de sidste par måneder er det blevet klart for mig at Mexico endnu engang optager mere og mere af min opmærksomhed. Det kan muligvis opfattes som en slags “gengældelsesaktion” fra ‪Las Americas, idet jeg dengang jeg endte med at tage til Uganda faktisk havde et ønske om at tage til ‪‎Latinamerika i en længere periode. Jeg har aldrig været særlig god til at forudsige, hvor jeg ville tage hen i verden